Keys To Successful Flea Control (Part 1)
Flea Eradication is not Spray a lot everywhere and wait and see. No, there are several pretreatment and post treatment measures known as mechanical control which are just as important as the actual application of control products. In addition, homeowners should be aware of certain biological facts about the flea life cycle to give them a more realistic expectation of the entire eradication process. When this is done the control provider and the home owner are more likely to be on the same page and will work together in order to provide the most successful eradication possible. As far as the actual control products I will cover this in detail in part 2, but for now I want to address the 1 pre 2 during and 3 post treatment procedures required by the homeowner in order for the quickest eradication possible. 1 The Pretreatment Procedure involves preparing for the product application. You should Pick up all loose items from the floor area inside your home including closets, under beds and pest resting or bedding areas. Vacuum and mop all floor surfaces in order to remove even the finest particles that may block a proper product application. On the exterior remove pet food and water containers. toys and other loose products. Mow the lawn if it hasn't been recently mowed. Make preparations to vacant inside the house for about 3 hours. These steps are important in insuring a proper product application. 2 During treatment make sure all persons and pets have provisions outside the treatment area. Treatment area should be dry prior to re-entry. Don't forget pet treatments should be provided around the time of the property treatment. 3 The Post Treatment Procedure involves daily vacuuming.. Basically what you will be dealing with after treatment is the pupa stage, which isn't killed during treatment but soon after hatching into young adults. The newly hatched adults are capable of biting before dieing so the infestation will be apparent until the supply of pupa is exhausted.That's why you want to vacuum often, to remove pupa and cause the rest to hatch faster thereby speeding up the eradication process. Vacuuming picks up flea pupae limiting the number of new hatching adults and the vibration of vacuuming expedites the hatching process. If your vacuum uses disposable bags throw them away after each vacuuming. Know this about a flea eradication program and follow the procedures I've described and your flea infestation will be eliminated quickly as possible. Remember it's not spray and gone. Do your part, have patience and two - four weeks you should be flea free.
Thursday, July 14, 2011
Friday, December 17, 2010
Monday, November 29, 2010
How To Rodent Proof Your Home (Part 2)
Yesterday, November 28, 2010, 12:51:50 PM | Steve Hilbun
Rodent Proofing Your Home is a two step process. Part one is to remove favorable influences from the exterior and nearby surroundings of your home. The elimination of possible nesting and feeding sights provides environmental deterrence which is part one of the two part process. Part 2 is Entry Denial, which focuses on eliminating or reducing actual entry points into your home. This will require a trip to Lowe’s, Home Depot or your local hardware store. You will want to purchase a bag of steel wool pads, a ten pound bag ready to mix concrete and if you have brick siding a sheet of hardware cloth (large gauge) and a pair of tin snips. If a house has brick siding I like to start with the weepholes. Weepholes serve an important purpose by providing ventilation, this is why we don’t just simply stuff them with steel wool and be done with them. Instead we want to block rodent entry while not blocking the air flow providing ventilation. Sturdy but porous hardware cloth is ideal for this application. With your tin snips in hand simply cut the hardware cloth slightly larger than the size of the weephole. Now, force the piece of hardware cloth into the weephole using a screwdriver, making sure the piece is secured to the sides of the weephole. I like to recess the piece about an inch into the weephole if possible. Now, repeat the process until all weepholes are snugly fitted with their own piece of hardware cloth disallowing rodent entry. If you have stucco, wood or vinyl siding a visual inspection is required, you will want to look foe any gaps at the bottom of the siding. If the hardboard behind the siding has pulled away or has water damage your will need to repair it. You may need to remove or raise the siding to get to the hardboard and reattach it with nails into the studs or bottom plate. Water damage that is significant should be cut out and replaced. If their is a continuous gap along the bottom of the siding this could be for ventilation and strips of hardware cloth should be attached in a fashion to breach the gap yet still allow for ventilation. Next I focus on service lines entering the structure, that is water, cable, telephone, electric lines etc. Inspect each line for gaps made from installation. If a gap as large as a dime exist it must be eliminated. This is done by stuffing the gap with the steel wool. Cut the steel wool sightly larger than the gap with your tin snips and stuff it in the gap recessing it about an inch. You should work your way entirely around the structure repeating the process. Next inspect the bottom of the door jams. Often moisture will rot the bottom of the jams creating an entry point. If this is the case either cut out the rotted area and scab in a solid piece of wood or dig out the rotted area and stuff the hole leaving enough room to patch the area flush with the rest of the jam. While you are at the doors check to make sure there is less than a quarter inch gap at the bottom of the door. If the gap exceeds one quarter inch you will need to attach a door sweep across the bottom of the door. Now, check the eave and soffit around the perimeter stuffing any opening with a dime size gap or greater. Eave vents should be secured flush with no bends in the grates allowing for entry. If the vents aren’t flush re-secure them or if the grates are bent allowing for gaps replace the vent. Finally, check your dryer vent for a flapper that properly closes when the dryer is off. Rodents will definitely enter through your dryer vent. If the flapper doesn’t properly seal or there is no flapper, install a new dryer vent with a flapper. I would make one final inspection insuring from facier board to slab that all openings have been eliminated. Satisfied that all possible entry points have been dealt with, you are now left with steel wool showing wherever stuffing was required. This is where the ready to mix concrete comes in. Pour about a quart of the concrete into a larger container. Mix in small amounts of water until the concrete when mixed is able to be scooped in your hand and somewhat shaped. Occasionally, I have to add more concrete if I have added to much water. Once you have your concrete consistent for patching make your way around the perimeter patching all the gaps you stuffed with the steel wool. Make sure the stuffing is recessed so when you add the concrete it will be flush with the surrounding surface. Now, smooth the concrete patch for cosmetic appearance and you have achieved Entry Denial. In summation, Rodent Proofing a structure involves two steps (1) Environmental Deterence —- involves removing objects and conditions on the exterior that provide harborage or feeding sights for rodents. and (2) Entry Denial—-involves eliminating rodent entry points to the structure itself. See www.pestsolver.com
Yesterday, November 28, 2010, 12:51:50 PM | Steve Hilbun
Rodent Proofing Your Home is a two step process. Part one is to remove favorable influences from the exterior and nearby surroundings of your home. The elimination of possible nesting and feeding sights provides environmental deterrence which is part one of the two part process. Part 2 is Entry Denial, which focuses on eliminating or reducing actual entry points into your home. This will require a trip to Lowe’s, Home Depot or your local hardware store. You will want to purchase a bag of steel wool pads, a ten pound bag ready to mix concrete and if you have brick siding a sheet of hardware cloth (large gauge) and a pair of tin snips. If a house has brick siding I like to start with the weepholes. Weepholes serve an important purpose by providing ventilation, this is why we don’t just simply stuff them with steel wool and be done with them. Instead we want to block rodent entry while not blocking the air flow providing ventilation. Sturdy but porous hardware cloth is ideal for this application. With your tin snips in hand simply cut the hardware cloth slightly larger than the size of the weephole. Now, force the piece of hardware cloth into the weephole using a screwdriver, making sure the piece is secured to the sides of the weephole. I like to recess the piece about an inch into the weephole if possible. Now, repeat the process until all weepholes are snugly fitted with their own piece of hardware cloth disallowing rodent entry. If you have stucco, wood or vinyl siding a visual inspection is required, you will want to look foe any gaps at the bottom of the siding. If the hardboard behind the siding has pulled away or has water damage your will need to repair it. You may need to remove or raise the siding to get to the hardboard and reattach it with nails into the studs or bottom plate. Water damage that is significant should be cut out and replaced. If their is a continuous gap along the bottom of the siding this could be for ventilation and strips of hardware cloth should be attached in a fashion to breach the gap yet still allow for ventilation. Next I focus on service lines entering the structure, that is water, cable, telephone, electric lines etc. Inspect each line for gaps made from installation. If a gap as large as a dime exist it must be eliminated. This is done by stuffing the gap with the steel wool. Cut the steel wool sightly larger than the gap with your tin snips and stuff it in the gap recessing it about an inch. You should work your way entirely around the structure repeating the process. Next inspect the bottom of the door jams. Often moisture will rot the bottom of the jams creating an entry point. If this is the case either cut out the rotted area and scab in a solid piece of wood or dig out the rotted area and stuff the hole leaving enough room to patch the area flush with the rest of the jam. While you are at the doors check to make sure there is less than a quarter inch gap at the bottom of the door. If the gap exceeds one quarter inch you will need to attach a door sweep across the bottom of the door. Now, check the eave and soffit around the perimeter stuffing any opening with a dime size gap or greater. Eave vents should be secured flush with no bends in the grates allowing for entry. If the vents aren’t flush re-secure them or if the grates are bent allowing for gaps replace the vent. Finally, check your dryer vent for a flapper that properly closes when the dryer is off. Rodents will definitely enter through your dryer vent. If the flapper doesn’t properly seal or there is no flapper, install a new dryer vent with a flapper. I would make one final inspection insuring from facier board to slab that all openings have been eliminated. Satisfied that all possible entry points have been dealt with, you are now left with steel wool showing wherever stuffing was required. This is where the ready to mix concrete comes in. Pour about a quart of the concrete into a larger container. Mix in small amounts of water until the concrete when mixed is able to be scooped in your hand and somewhat shaped. Occasionally, I have to add more concrete if I have added to much water. Once you have your concrete consistent for patching make your way around the perimeter patching all the gaps you stuffed with the steel wool. Make sure the stuffing is recessed so when you add the concrete it will be flush with the surrounding surface. Now, smooth the concrete patch for cosmetic appearance and you have achieved Entry Denial. In summation, Rodent Proofing a structure involves two steps (1) Environmental Deterence —- involves removing objects and conditions on the exterior that provide harborage or feeding sights for rodents. and (2) Entry Denial—-involves eliminating rodent entry points to the structure itself. See www.pestsolver.com
How To Rodent Proof Your Home ? Part 1
Friday, October 29, 2010, 8:41:50 PM Steve Hilbun
Cooler weather is coming and with it rodents. They want a nice warm cozy spot to nest, like under your dishwasher. It is possible to reduce or eliminate rodents from entering your house. There are two procedures involved in the process of reducing or eliminating a rodent infestation, altogether. (1) Environmental Deterrence. (2) Entry Denial. These two procedures really work and yield long term results, so the effort you will need to put forth is well worth it.
(225) 315-4696
Environmental Deterrence —– Involves removing outside influence. That is eliminating an environment conducive to rodent attraction. You want your house’s exterior, lawn and nearby area free of harborage areas. First eliminate environmental feeding sights. Food for your pets should be stored in sealed containers. Bird and squirrel feeders should be removed or managed daily. Second eliminate environmental harborage areas. A rule of thumb is if it touches the ground but can be removed from the ground it should. An example of environmental deterrence would be placing firewood on a rack, off the ground. Lumber, bricks, shingles and countless other items normally found on properties should be in your storage building or sold in your next garage sale. On several occasions I have seen the root cause of rodent infestations as bricks or other items stacked against the carport storage. I would move the items around and find rodent nesting material or burrows under the items. If rodents are nesting near your house your kitchen may well turn into their feeding sight. Successful environmental deterrence removes nesting sights which in turn reduces the chance of an infestation. Rodents prefer a feeding sight near their nesting sight, remove possible nesting sights and you reduce possible feeding sights, which in turn reduces your chance of an infestation. Keep your lawn clean, well groomed, free of stacked or loose items, free of pet or other food items and you will deter visits from unwanted guests.
Friday, October 29, 2010, 8:41:50 PM Steve Hilbun
Cooler weather is coming and with it rodents. They want a nice warm cozy spot to nest, like under your dishwasher. It is possible to reduce or eliminate rodents from entering your house. There are two procedures involved in the process of reducing or eliminating a rodent infestation, altogether. (1) Environmental Deterrence. (2) Entry Denial. These two procedures really work and yield long term results, so the effort you will need to put forth is well worth it.
(225) 315-4696
Environmental Deterrence —– Involves removing outside influence. That is eliminating an environment conducive to rodent attraction. You want your house’s exterior, lawn and nearby area free of harborage areas. First eliminate environmental feeding sights. Food for your pets should be stored in sealed containers. Bird and squirrel feeders should be removed or managed daily. Second eliminate environmental harborage areas. A rule of thumb is if it touches the ground but can be removed from the ground it should. An example of environmental deterrence would be placing firewood on a rack, off the ground. Lumber, bricks, shingles and countless other items normally found on properties should be in your storage building or sold in your next garage sale. On several occasions I have seen the root cause of rodent infestations as bricks or other items stacked against the carport storage. I would move the items around and find rodent nesting material or burrows under the items. If rodents are nesting near your house your kitchen may well turn into their feeding sight. Successful environmental deterrence removes nesting sights which in turn reduces the chance of an infestation. Rodents prefer a feeding sight near their nesting sight, remove possible nesting sights and you reduce possible feeding sights, which in turn reduces your chance of an infestation. Keep your lawn clean, well groomed, free of stacked or loose items, free of pet or other food items and you will deter visits from unwanted guests.
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